The Catlins

Catlins, Saturday 28 February 2009

In the loveliest backpackers possible – quiet, clean, almost luxurious, new bathroom fittings, a nice kitchen ... and a twin room to myself. Bliss. I thought I was going to have the whole place to myself for a while, but am sharing with a nice older Dutch couple and a younger couple of uncertain origin. I've got laundry done and have also backed up a bunch of photos, so am right up to date and prepared for a good night's sleep. Hurrah.

Day in the Catlins was nice despite overcast weather. It rained for a bit this morning and then there was just very low cloud all day, but it was at least warm. Starting out this morning I missed the petrol stations in Dunedin and had an anxious few miles with the empty light flicking on and off until I found fuel in Mosgiel. Phew. I had an indifferent coffee in Balclutha (smaller than I'd imagined, for some reason) and then pushed on to Nugget Point. There's supposed to be a wildlife viewing hide but it's closed at the moment, however the little walk up to the lighthouse was worth it. Very wild. After that, I stopped in Owaka, purchased my obligatory kiwi (knitted, adorable, needs a name) and went to Jack's Bay for lunch.

Nearby there's a blowhole which is 200m inland but was utterly cool – 55m deep and the sea was pounding the sides. An awesome noise and sight. Also, I may have solved the blisters problem with tape and Icebreaker. Should've known Icebreaker would be the answer.

Onwards on the teeth-crunching gravel roads to Purakanui Falls, which were beautiful. The bonus of lots of rain, I suppose. I was annoyed though by the two ladies with dogs, walking them along the track despite the very clear “no dogs” sign at the start. After that, Matai Falls, which were prettier if possible though smaller. I do like a good waterfall.

Then I found my way to the hostel – which is the wrong word for this place really, was thrilled at how nice it was, and have spent the evening eating well, drinking Pinot Gris and chilling. It's a hard life.

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Curio Bay, Sunday 1 March

Horrible weather. Blowing a gale outside with intermittent rain, so have retreated to tonight's hostel – a beach house with a nice view of Curio Bay. Glad I'm not camping, it's freezing.

Diary interrupted suddenly to dash on to the beach and watch Hector's Dolphins surfing. They actually swam around beyond the break, waited for a wave, and then surfed in on it. Remarkable. Extremely brilliant. In 45 minutes or so I'm going to head up to Curio Bay in the hope of seeing some hoiho come ashore; earlier on there was a solitary early arrival on the beach but it'd be good to see more.

Another steady sort of day, no point pushing it really. It rained torrents overnight so McLean's Falls first thing were spectacular and gushing water. After a good coffee (hurrah) in the café near the falls on to Cathedral Caves, which are very big and you can walk around inside them. Photos dreadful though, I forgot to take my big flash which might have helped (have barely used it since I got it). Also getting repeated problems with the wide angle – whatever Error 99 is it's annoying me.

Had a picnic by the Waikawa Museum, didn't go round the museum really or look at the amateur art exhibition in the village hall! Did have a look at the cute old church which would have been nicer without the local craft gallery inside it ... then to Curio Bay, which I reached at a low enough tide to explore the fossilised forest as well as take lots of pictures of the aforementioned penguin. I had this crazy idea that the fossil forest was actually just lots of fossils, but it turned out to be an actual forest, fossilised, and you can see the knots in the wood and all sorts in the stone. Fascinating really.

Plan for tomorrow – visit Slope Point, and then drive round the coast to Bluff from where I catch the ferry to Stewart Island in the hope of adding to my endangered wildlife viewing list.

(We did see some penguins in the rain, and then more dolphins over dinner in the bay.)

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Oban, Monday 2 March

On Stewart Island. It's quiet. The hostel has free internet, which is extraordinary and very cool. A little slow but not drastically. Got the 5pm ferry here, checked in, washed my trousers and walking socks, showered, dashed out for dinner at the local pub - had to eat in the bar because the restaurant was full, a slight annoyance but I got to local-watch which is always amusing. Saw a kaka(po?) on the way back to the hostel; no camera but I'm sure there'll be more tomorrow.

The weather was, finally, better today - woohoo. I discovered a random waterfall walk that I think was recommended in the visitor's book at Curio Bay. It was a lovely walk but kind of adventurous with lots of slippery bits and two streams to cross that were deep enough to necessitate taking off boots. I was ankle-deep in mud at a few points and my trousers got completely covered in the stuff. The waterfalls were spectacular in a primeval sort of way but my camera lens fogged up because it was pretty humid!

Once I'd de-booted and taken off the bottom half of my trousers (thank heavens for walking trousers) I carried on to Slope Point, the southernmost bit of the South Island. It was, mainly, very windy. But I liked it more than coach-ridden Cape Reinga really. Next stop, and the last bit of the Catlins to see really, was Waipapa Point where sea lions lived. I saw two, both doing the "we're just sleeping and aren't interested in being interesting today" thing.

That was about it - the drive to Bluff was spectacularly uneventful and the ferry ride over to Stewart Island equally so really. Going to spend the rest of the evening catching up, reading, and an early night to make the most of my day here.

More pictures to go on Flickr when I can.