Penguins!!

Today it didn't rain too much - at last. This was good because it meant that I was able to do stuff en route to Oamaru (though I've gone for a backpackers instead of camping because rain is still forecast, and there's no point being masochistic in order to save a few dollars). Once we'd got up in the morning it began to clear, so I jumped in the car and drove to the Tasman Glacier. I wasn't very impressed by the not-at-all Blue Lakes (green ponds) but the glacier and the lake were stunning with lots of atmospheric stormy light and clouds - and the top of the mountain clearing. Highly worth seeing. After that I drove out of the park, stopping a couple of times to snap the peak of Aoraki emerging.

I had lunch in Omarama then turned off SH83 at Benmore Dam, which is New Zealand's second-largest dam and Lake Benmore the largest manmade lake. It's a phenomenal piece of engineering, with a massive earthworks and gallons and gallons of water. I was quite impressed.

Unfortunately I was less impressed with the Takiroa Maori rock art I briefly stopped at - scrawls on a wall, not much to compare with older rock art such as that in France or Aborigine art. Later on I paused to look at the Elephant Rocks, a location in The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe that seemed bigger on screen. Still, odd-shaped rocks are always worth looking at.

Got to Oamaru about 3.30pm and checked into my hostel, which is one of those slightly eccentric ramshackle ones. However it's clean and the owner is friendly and it's right in the centre. Had dinner out because I couldn't be bothered cooking and then went to see the yellow-eyed penguin colony. I've got the wrong week really as apparently they're moulting, so most of the penguins aren't leaving their nests. Accordingly I only saw two or three in the hour I shivered in the hide, buffeted by a very strong wind, but it was worth it and the volunteer keeping an eye on things was highly knowledgeable and very entertaining (also, Scottish). He had lots of stories about penguin antics and explained how they climb up the cliff from the beach to their nesting spots. Incredible really. I got a couple of blurry pictures with my telephoto. Tomorrow I'm going to see the little blue penguins in the evening, after a day exploring the delights of Oamaru - it's your standard Kiwi town really, with some old interesting harbour buildings and a cheese factory and a museum. I might go swimming too, because there's also an aquatic centre that looked nice from the outside.